Beetlecat in Distress
Here is an ongoing project that, after further review, required more work than was originally estimated. Often, when a customer states that a boat is leaking, will ask how much will it cost to repair. My first reaction is, well, I won’t really know the extent of the repair until I actually get into it.
To assess a bottom’s condition, the paint first needs to be removed; various fasteners will need to be removed to determine if they are a) holding the plank to the frame and, b) if the fastening has deteriorated. Sometimes a fastener will spin in its hole without backing out in which case the job becomes that much more time consuming. The framing on the inside of the boat will need close inspection; broken, split, or rotten frames will need replacement. The keel, stem, and scarves will need close scrutiny as well. Once the bottom has been stripped, any problems with the planking will become readily apparent. It is a good idea, given the relatively small area of the catboat’s bottom, to remove the seam compound and caulking. Again, the amount of time to accomplish this will depend on a) the type of seam compound used, b) the amount of cotton in the seams and c) the tightness and integrity of the seam itself.
I generally go at a project believing (hoping for) the best case scenario; why use the approach that everything on the boat needs replacement and scare the owner half to death? In my estimation, on original inspection, the boat would require some framing, recaulking, and refastening. And, to the owner I would say here is my best guess what that might cost – and let the chips fall where they may.
In the case of this particular Beetlecat, the owner chose to proceed. The first challenge is to get the boat into the shop, lift the boat off the trailer, turn the boat over in the slings, and carefully set the boat upside down on blocking at a good working height. I first installed heavy eye hooks into the ceiling joists, assembled an assortment of slings, blocks and tackles, cushions, and cleats for tiedowns. Once the slings have been set up on the boat and all is ready to go, the boat will be lifted off the trailer and the trailer removed to a safe location. At this point, it was decided to rig casters on deck; one forward through the mast partners, and two aft just forward of the after deck. This allows the boat to be rolled to different locations in the shop as the floor is cement.
To begin the rollover process, one side must be lowered onto the cushions and the other side lifted as high as possible. Once the boat is on edge (or close to it), it can be “tipped” over within the slings with the aid of a tagline. The raising and lowering is now reversed until the boat is level again and then set down on blocks at about stomach level thus making make caulking and refastening more convenient.
The next thing is to remove the bottom paint either by heat gun or chemical paint remover. It is difficult to assess the thickness of the paint (loosely translated – how much time it will take) until the job has commenced. I then proceeded to reef the seams. One never knows what one will find; in this case, the dreaded rubber seam compound (3M 5200 or Boatlife). Rather than a reefing iron, the compound will need to be cut away with a sheet rock knife or similar; loosely translated – much more time than originally estimated.
Once the cotton has been exposed, it too will need to be reefed out. I believe this Beetlecat was originally assembled with cotton wicking between the seams; ie, no chamfer cut into the edge of the plank for cotton caulking. This allowed for a quicker build by eliminating hand caulking. At some point in this catboat’s life, the bottom was recaulked to an open seam. This was accomplished using massive amounts of cotton and rubber for a seam compound over the cotton. Again, all of this needed to be removed, including the original wicking leaving an open seam – on an average 1/4″ open! This cannot be caulked without splining each seam. Splines are long, tapered strips glued to the plank edge. Again, this process was not accounted for in the original estimate because the seam gap did not become apparent until all caulking materials were removed.
Before the actual caulking process begins, the planking must be firmly and solidly fastened to the framing. Similarly, the plank ends must be solidly on the stem and transom, and the garboard to the keel rabbet. This catboat had the majority of the bottom refastened with bronze screws most of which were in good shape though many required a deeper countersink. I suspect the original fasteners were ferrous screws or nails. Keep in mind that the framing accepting these screws must be solid; frame repairs must be finished before the boat is refastened.
A Beetlecat is about 12′ long with a foredeck, sidedecks, and aftdeck. The mast step, stem scarf, and forward section of the keel are located under the foredeck. It requires a thin man to wiggle under the deck to gain access to the mast step, forward frames and keel, and stem scarf. A very thin man. To adequately access these areas for reframing or rebolting, the deck (and deck coaming) will need to be removed. This scenario is probably the last thing the owner wants to hear at this point given the aforementioned trials and tribulations. But, you can see where this is going so I will say no more.
Now that the frame repairs are finished, the planking refastened and bunged as required, and any engraver pieces fitted and glued into planking imperfections are completed, the bottom may be sanded and caulked. It requires great care to caulk a bottom of thinly planked cedar; do not push the cotton through the seam by caulking too firmly; set the cotton deep enough to allow for underwater seam compound, and do not damage the plank edge by not having a wide enough seam. Sometimes a seam will accept a half strand of cotton, other times a full strand, and rarely two strands. The cotton is first rolled into a ball (literally roll the strand between both your hands compressing it before making the ball) of perhaps 5″ in diameter, place the ball into a small cardboard box, and then install the cotton strand with a proper caulking iron and some sort of comfortable mallet of suitable size for the job. I have watched numerous caulkers but the best way to learn is through trial and error; there is no substitute for experience. If possible, break off the job at convenient intervals and go on to something else. Caulking can be mind numbing!
I prefer the red underwater seam compound that is thinned with mineral spirits to a yogurt like consistency and applied from a wood palette. It goes on quickly, penetrates completely and, with the right putty knife, cleans off flush with the plank making for a very neat and tidy job. There you go! No problem, right? Just don’t tell the owner how easy it was.
